One of the things that struck me the most during my drives
through Dakar was the contrast that I saw everywhere.
Outside of my window, I watched mesmerized as we passed
by large white buildings decorated with elaborately colorful
tiles standing adjacent to the most dilapidated, run down
houses I had ever seen. There were many instances where
I couldn’t distinguish between the construction
and destruction of these buildings; it certainly didn’t
seem to me as though any person could safely call these
places home, and it also struck me as odd that there could
be such beauty in the architecture right next to them.
Shiny new BMWs and Mercedes Benzes cruise the streets,
bumper to bumper with vehicles so old and so banged up
that I am certain they would never be allowed on the streets
in America. Rich adults in their classy cars are approached
constantly by poor children in tattered clothing, walking
amidst traffic barefoot with the hope that someone will
roll down their window and give them some money, any money.
On the day of our internships, Sophie, Carmen and I careened
through the busy streets of Dakar in a typical taxi cab—cracked
windows, brave driver, and window decals of religious
figures. Upon our arrival at Ecopole, after paying the
driver the previously agreed upon amount for his service,
we were ushered into a classroom through a large door.
Like most buildings I encountered in Dakar, even the rooms
inside had a very outside feeling to them. The room we
were in was lit by the sunlight that streamed in through
the windows. There were handmade toys, bags, and candleholders
along two of the walls and pictures of Senegalese communities
with captions written in the meticulous handwriting of
children along the other. A few tables and chairs made
up the majority of the furniture in the room, although
there was also a large display shelf for the art and a
desk in one of the back corners. I didn’t really
know what kind of school Ecopole was at first, and I was
surveying the room thoroughly, taking everything in when
a man came into the room, shook our hands, and got straight
to the business of talking with us. I listened carefully
as he described the conditions of the slum that was set
up across the street from Ecopole: how it began, the process
of reorganization, and how it exists today. I was following
along, not completely sure if the ideas he was elaborating
upon were simply ideas or if they had already been put
into action. This basic piece of information had been
lost in translation, and, as was my choice during many
similar situations in Senegal, I chose to harbor some
confusion for the time being out of my slight fear of
asking a question immediately after the person speaking
finishes addressing that exact subject.
After speaking with this man, we were taken on a tour
of the school. Ecopole, as I discovered, is geared toward
children who live in the slum. It focuses on teaching
them how to use their imaginations to better their economic
realities. The children who attend Ecopole spend their
days using their hands to bring their imaginations to
life. They do this by, among other things, making crafts
and toys out of objects and materials that would otherwise
be considered garbage—soda cans, scraps of wire,
bottle caps, plastic bags. The money that they make when
these items are purchased is divided by three, one part
going to the school for supplies and the like, one part
going to the community in which the child lives, and one
part going directly to the child and his or her individual
family. As they are painting and building, these children
are also educated on their situation and their community
so that they understand not only how to make the wonderful
toys and art that they create, but they also why it is
important for them to be spending their time in school
and how their contributions help them and their community.
The work that these children were doing was incredibly
impressive! After buying a couple of objects from them—I
came away with a two necklaces, two bracelets, and a tray
made out of flattened Orangina cans—we headed outside
and began to walk directly into the slum. I must say that
this is something that I have wanted to experience for
a long time, and something I never thought I would be
able to do—at least, not on this trip. As a white
girl, my appearance in impoverished sections of Dakar
is not exactly something that can be concealed, and the
last thing I ever want to do is make a spectacle out of
the difficulty of other people’s lives. The people
who live in this slum are poor. There is no denying that
the lives they lead are difficult. I didn’t know
what kind of reaction my presence was going to elicit.
This was one of the most important days I have lived
through in my entire life. The slum was organized exactly
how the man had described it to us when we first arrived
at Ecopole, and upon my realization of this I gained a
newfound level of respect for the work that goes into
maintaining their community. The intricate details of
living arrangements, divisions of property, and spaces
for work are invisible from the street because they are
so well contained within the seemingly thrown-together
exterior of the slum, the one part that is visible to
every passerby. I had no idea how many houses and people
and families called the place where I was standing home.
I wish I could keep every sight I saw, every voice I heard,
and every experience I underwent during those few hours
in a bottle so that I could open it up and share it with
all of the people in my life. No number of photos or verbal
details can bring to life the feelings that soared through
my heart while I was walking through the slum. The little
boy who stared excitedly into my eyes and held onto my
pants while his mother prepared food smiling less than
five feet away…the old woman preparing dinner who
invited us to stay and eat with her family…so many
people greeted us with a smile. Through my brief interactions
with these people whose names I do not even know, I was
able to gain some very powerful insight. Poverty is not
something to justify or forget about, but it does not
necessarily preclude people from living, from sharing,
from singing, or from leading a happy life.
I was able to have so many important experiences during
my short time in Senegal simply by living there day after
day and I am very grateful to everyone who put this trip
together. The program was designed beautifully. Ousmane,
Honorine, and Samba continuously made me feel comfortable,
offering themselves as resources available twenty-four
hours a day, yet giving me and the rest of the group the
respect and freedom that we needed and deserved in order
to make this trip our own. The level of flexibility within
the program was commendable: I was very impressed with
the extent to which the three of them took our suggestions
to heart, such as when we expressed a desire to leave
for the beach a day ahead of time. We inquired about the
possibility and—just like that!—we were on
the road that evening. I thought that the beach itself
was wonderful, a lovely touristy break from the difficulties
that arose from living in a situation where I felt as
though I had to be “on” all of the time. I
loved living with another Mount Holyoke student—we
were able to feed off of each other and help each other
through the difficulties of being immersed in a partially
francophone environment. One suggestion that I will make
for future J-Term trips is to have more internship opportunities
available so that each student can experience more than
one. My internship proved to be such a valuable part of
the trip for me; I wish that everybody could have experienced
it, and I also would have loved to spend an afternoon
at the AIDS clinic or with a drum and dance group as some
of the other students did. I had an eye-opening and horizon-broadening
time in Dakar, and I am very thankful for the opportunity
that I was given.