Hugo on Dandyism:

"If they were richer, we should say: they are dandies; if they were poorer, we should say: they are vagabonds. They are simply idlers.

In those days, a dandy was made up of a large collar, a large cravat, a watch loaded with chains, three waistcoats worn one over the other....a short, olive coloured coat with a fish-tail skirt, a double row of silver buttons....and pantaloons of a lighter olive, ornamented at the two seams with an indefinite, but always odd, number of ribs....

Add to this Butcher boots with little iron caps on the heel, a high-crowned and narrow-brimmed hat, hair bushed out, an enormous cane, and conversation spiced with the puns of Potier. Above all, spurs and moustaches. In those days, moustaches meant civilians, and spurs meant pedestrians.

The provincial dandy wore longer spurs and fiercer moustaches."

-Hugo, Les Miserables,Fantine Book V, chap.XII