Southern Towns

CANTERBURY is an ancient and highly respectable city, county of itself (having separate jurisdiction), and the see of the archbishop, who is primate of all England; locally in the lathe of Saint Augustine, and hundred of Bridge and Petham, in the eastern division of the county - 56 miles east by south from London. Its situation is one of the most highly favoured in Kent: it is seated in a fertile vale, environed by gently rising hills, which supply numerous streams of excellent water; and intersected by the river Stour. The see was established by St Augustine, the first archbishop, in 599; and he was created metropolitan of all England, by Pope Boniface, in 629. The monastery of St. Augustine, for many ages so generally celebrated, was founded, and dedicated to St. Peter and St. Paul, by Ethelbert King of Kent, in the year 605.

The ancient gate of the city (which has for many years been converted into a prison) stands an admirable monument of the former grandeur of Canterbury; the greater portion of the wall is likewise persevered. There are fourteen churches, all of them ancient, but destitute of any other claim to description. The cathedral, however, justly ranks as one of the finest specimens of ecclesiastical architecture in Great Britain. Thomas A'Becket the archbishop and reputed saint, was murdered here on the 29th December, 1173; and his remains were removed to his shrine in 1220.

Canterbury Cathedral


Canterbury
Source: Baedeker's Great Britian (Leipsic)

The Wesleyan methodists have a commodious and handsome chapel, and there are places of worship for presbytarians, baptists, and the society of friends; the jews, also, have a synagogue. The charitable institutions belonging to Canterbury are numerous: the 'king's school', situated in the Precincts, is said to have been founded by archbishop Theodore, about 650; there is a blue-coat school, connected with the workhouse (formerly an hospital for poor priests), and other for gratuitous instruction: the Kent and Canterbury hospital is a most valuable charity; and there are several almshouses, and various benefits arising from bequests and endowments.

The first manufacture for which Canterbury was noted was that of silk; it was established here by the Walloons, in the reign of Elizabeth, but at the present day is of no consequence. For some years back, however, this city long become celebrated for the production of a superior kind of damask linen. This place has long been famed for its brawn, which is in high estimation all over the kingdom, but particularly so in London. The manufactures of parchment and vellum are the other branches of any consideration. The trade in long wool is extensive, but that in corn and hops is of paramount importance; the cultivation of the latter article, for which the soil here is peculiarly favourable, employs the major part of the labouring class. There are several respectable breweries, some malting establishments, and on the banks of the river numerous mills, some of them of considerable magnitude. The railway from hence to Whitstable harbour (whence there is a regular water communication with the metropolis) must eventually prove of infinite advantage to the trade of this city and vicinity. Previous to the act of 1835 the municipal affairs of Canterbury were conducted under a charter obtained from James I: by the recent enactment the corporation is composed of a mayor, six aldermen, eighteen councillors and the usual assistant officers, who are styled 'the mayor and commonalty of the city of Canterbury'; the same charter divided the city into three wards, and conferred upon it a commission of the peace. The privilege of sending representatives to parliament has been exercised by this city ever since the 23rd of Edward I; the sheriff is the returning officer.

There are several libraries and reading rooms; a philosophical and literary institution, with a museum; a musical society, assembly rooms, and a neat theatre. Four newspapers issue from the press here weekly. A particular place of recreation enjoyed by the citizens is the 'Dane John-field': at the south-east corner of a field, close to the city wall, is thrown up a vast artificial mount or hill, now to all appearance circular, the sides of which are cut into serpentine walks, so as to admit of an easy ascent to the summit. The views from this spot are rich, extensive and diversified. There are daily markets for provisions of all kinds; but the principal one, which is for cattle, corn, hops and seed, is held on Saturday, and is toll-free for corn.

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Margate is a sea-port, market town and parish, in the cinque port liberty of Dover, lathe of St. Augustine and hundred of Ringslow (or Isle of Thanet) - 72 miles e. from London, 43 e.n.e. from Maidstone, and 16 n.e. of Canterbury, pleasantly situated at the northern extremity of the Isle of Thanet, partly on the acclivity of two hills and partly in the intervening valley.

Margate, in the middle of the last century, was nothing more than a fishing village of small importance; but since that period it has been gradually ascending to its present rank, which is that of a populous town and a bathing place of the first celebrity. The waters are limpid, the shore level, and the air bland, pure and invigorating. The establishments for the convenience of the temporary sojourner, the invalid and the wealthy resident, are numerous and attractive; and the baths, hotels, libraries, reading rooms, assembly rooms, theatre, bazaars, promenades, &c., surpass those of most other places on the coast; while the public and private boarding houses, established upon various scales of expense, are proportionate in number and respectability. In 1824 a wooden pier was constructed, which is carried one thousand and sixty-two feet into the sea; it is eighteen feet wide, and is named 'Jarvis's landing-place', in compliment to Mr. Jarvis, a resident gentleman of Margate, at whose suggestion this beneficial improvement was undertaken. The new pier, the plan of the late Mr. Rennie, built of Whitby stone, is nine hundred and one feet long, sixty feed wide in the broadest part, and twenty-six feet high, with a parapet of four feet six inches. The promenade, and fashionable evening lounge of the summer visitants, is eight hundred and fifty-six feet in length, eighteen feet in width, and elevated seven feet and a half above the level of the pier; it is defended from the sun and rain by canvass awnings; a band of music attends, and at night the whole is brilliantly illuminated with gas.

The parish church of St. John the Baptist, situate on a hill, was built about the year 1050, and was made parochial about 1220. From the great population during the summer months, and the increase of resident inhabitants, the old church was found inadequate to their accommodation, and a new one was therefore erected, which was completed in 1829; it is a beautiful structure, of Bath stone, in the early English style of architecture. The church is dedicated to the Holy Trinity, and the benefice is a perpetual curacy, in the patronage of the vicar of St. John's. There are places of worship for baptists, independents, Wesleyan methodists, Roman Catholics and the society of friends. There are several charitable institutions: besides Draper's hospital, and national and charity schools, there is the royal sea-bathing infirmary, at Westbrook, founded under the patronage of royalty. The 'Tivoli Gardens', opened a few years ago, adjoin the town, in a most delightful situation, and are ornamented with fine sheets of water and umbrageous plantations. The remains of 'Dandelion', a fortified mansion of a family of that name in the reign of Edward I, stand about a mile and a half to the south-west of the town. In 1820 a new market was constructed; over it is the town hall, a building of the Tuscan order. Under a grant obtained from the crown, in 1777, markets are on Wednesday and Saturday.

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Isle of Wight

Map of the Isle of Wight

Isle of Wight
Source: J. Bartholomew (Edinburgh)

WEST COWES is a market town in the north division of the parish of Northwood, and liberty of West Medina, Isle of Wight - 102 miles from London, and 12 from Portsmouth; seated on the declivity of the hill on the west side of the river Medina, near its influx with the sea. From its excellent harbour ships can directly steer either to the west or east. In time of war, large fleets of merchantmen frequently ride off here for several weeks, waiting for convoy; and the town then enjoys a brisk trade in the sale of provisions, and other necessaties for the sea service. The shore, for the purpose of bathing, is remarkably good; and of late years the number of strangers who have resided here during the season has been very considerable, and of great advantage to the inhabitants. Some few years since Cowes acquired celebrity by the establishment of a yacht club, of which his late Majesty was a member, with about one hundred noblemen and gentlemen; since that period an annual regatta takes place, generally in August or September, when upwards of three hundred vessels, of different descriptions, are usually present; and visitors from the neighbouring counties, and from distant sea-ports, are attracted by the animating spectacle. As a place of recreative and salubrious resort, the establishments here for the convenience and amusement of strangers keep pace with its increasing importance. The lodging-houses are excellent - the inns of the first order- and the private baths (both hot and cold), reading-rooms, &c., are well conducted. West Cowes is a polling station at the election of a member to represent the Isle in parliament.

A handsome church (first opened in 1832), was erected and endowed at the sole expense of Mrs. Sarah Goodwin. There is, besides, a chapel of ease under Northwood; and the Wesleyan Methodists and Roman Catholics have each a place of worship. The market is held on Saturday, and a fair on Thursday in Whitsun week. The parish contained, by the last census (1841), 5,147 inhabitants, of which number 4,107 were returned for West Cowes.

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EAST COWES is a hamlet in the parish of Whippingham, seated on the eastern bank of the harbour, and so completely sheltered from the north-east and east winds by the richly wooded high grounds of Cowes Castle, Norris castle, and Osborn park, as to rank it for winter residence with the Undercliff, and other favoured but less accessible sites, which have obtained for the Island the title of the 'British Madeira' as well as 'Garden of England'. The Medina Hotel (in front of which the steamers now land) contains assembly, billiard and news rooms, and excellent baths. In various parts of the hamelt are residences of the first rank and splendour; amongst these are - East Cowes Castle, the seat of the Earl of Shannon, erected by the late John Nash, Esq., at a cost of £50,000.; Norris Castle, by John Wyatt, Esq., for the late Lord Seymour, at a more considerable expense; Osborn Park, Lady Isabella Blashford; Saint Thomas's, Miss Barrington; Slatwoods, Miss Shedden; Springhill, George Shedden, Esq.; The Lodge, Henry Auldjo, Esq. The first stone of East Cowes church, dedicated to St. James, was laid by the Queen Dowager during her occupation of Norris Castle. Immediately adjoining is the new watering place, called East Cowes Park, extending for half a mile along the banks of Cowes harbour and the Medina river. The road, two miles in length and sixty-six feet in width, will be margined by an arboratum, enclosing a botancal garden of forty acres (the largest in England), and possessing the great advantages of salt as well as fresh water, a wood of twenty-five acres, and variety of soil and climate - the ground rising to a height of one hundred and seventy feet above the sea. The prospects commanded are of the most enrapturing description, embracing Cowes harbour and roadstead, Calshot and Eaglepunt castles, Southampton water and town, the course of the Madina to Newport, Carisbrook castle, and the downs above the Undercliff. Two hundred mansions and villas are about to be erected, according to designs exhibited in the cosmoramic pavilion in the botanic garden, and will afford the much required accommodation for the familes and members of the Royal Yacht sqandron and others, now obliged to resort to Ryde and Southampton. Whippingham parish contained, in 1841, 2,518 inhabitants, and East Cowes hamlet 880 of that number.

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NEWPORT is a market town and borough, both corporate and parliamentary, having separate jurisdiction, locally in the parish of Carisbrooke and liberty of West Medina, Isle of Wight; 84 miles from London, 12 from Portsmouth, and 7 W. by S. from Ryde; situated nearly in the centre of the Island, of which it is the principal town. It is plenteously watered, both on the east and west sides, by fine streams; on these are corn mills, and at their junction below the town is a quay for the convenience of commerce. The trade of Newport is chiefly of a miscellaneous and local character, and the main export is grain; some business, but not to an important extent, is transacted in timber, iron and malt; and the manufacture of lace, which was some years since introduced, furnishes employment to a number of children of the humbler class. The town, which is extremely neat and well built, is disposed in five parellel streets in length, and three in breadth; these are well paved, gas-lighted, kept remarkably clean, and provided with footways. The principal public building is the guildhall and market place - a large and elegant structure, of the Ionic order, erected at the expense of the corporation, and standing in the centre of the town, to which it is a conspicuous ornament. Over the market place are a magnificent town hall, council chamber, petty jury room, and other offices. In the hall the borough quarter sessions are held, and petty sessions by the borough magistrates weekly or oftener; courts of pie powdre and curia militum, and others for the recovery of debts, are also held. The barracks, of sufficient magnitude for the reception of three thousand troops, and the military hospital, both admirable establishments, are situated in the forest of Parkhurst; and near the barracks are the penitentiaries for juvenile convicts. The borough was first incorporated by James I. Under the new municipal act the corporation consists of a mayor, six aldermen and eighteen councillors, with the usual assistant officers - the corporate body being styled 'the mayor, aldermen and chief burgesses of the borough of Newport, in the Isle of Wight'; the same act divided the borough into two wards, and provided it with a commission of the peace. In the 23rd of Edward I the borough was first represented in parliament, and it still continues to send two members; those returned at the general election in 1841 were Charles Wykeham Martin, Esq., and William John Hamilton, Esq.

The church of Thomas-a-Becket is of great antiquity, and indebted to various repairs and additions for its present appearance; it contains several handsome monuments, and a pulpit of curious workmanship, considered an exquisite specimen of the antique; the vicar of Carisbrooke nominates the curate to the living of Newport. There are, besides, two new churches (or rather chapels), very neat edifices; and the Baptists, Independents, Wesleyan Methodists, Unitarians, and Roman Catholics have their respective places of worship. The benevolent character of this town is testified by the many well supported charitable instituions, and the numerous schools for children of the poor. The principal classical establishment is the free grammar school, well endowed. The house of industry, connected with the whole island, is worty of particular notice, as being the most conspicuous erection, both in magnitude and utility, appropriated to charitable purposes. The literary establishments consist of several well selected libraries and private book-clubs, a philosophical society and museum, a mechanics' institute and museum, &c. The inhabitants derive amusement from occasional dramatic performances in a neat theatre, and in well attended assemblies, for which latter pupose there are two rooms of considerable elegance. The weekly market is held on Saturday, and one for cattle every alternate Wednesday; fairs, on the Mondays, Tuesdays and Wednesdays in Whitsun week and at Michaelmas. Newport borough contained, by the last census (1841), 3,853 inhabitants.

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One mile from Newport is the village of CARISBROOKE - of itself little worthy of notice, but its castle has always been an attractive object. This ancient fortress stands on a conical eminence rising above the village, and occupies about twenty acres. Its foundation is of very remote antiquity. Some antiquaries state it to have been founded by the Romans, as some coins of that nation have been discovered at different times in its vicinity; but the keep is decidely of Norman origin. The whole was greatly improved in the time of Elizabeth, and surrounded by an extensive fortification. The ancient fortress, a rectangular parallelogram, including the keep, occupies about an acre and a half of ground; the latter being raised on an artificial mound, to which there is an ascent by about 70 steps; from the summit an extensive and beautiful prospectis obtained, embracing the lovely home scenery of the island; extensive and lively sea-views, and opposite, part of the New Forest, Portsdown hills, &c. On days of public rejoicing and during the residence of the governor, the British flag is displayed on the keep. Within the castle are the ruins of an ancient guard-house, and the chapel of St. Nicholas; in the latter the mayor and high constables are sworn into office annually. The castle has sustained attacks in different ages; amongst others, in 1136, by Stephen, when it was taken by him; and, in the reign of Richard II, by the French, who plundered the island, but failed to reduce the garrison. The castle, however, is most remarkable, as having been the prison of Charles I, for thirteen months, previously to his being delivered up to the parliamentary forces, and whence he made two unsuccessful attempts to escape; and the remains of a window is still shew through which he attempted to pass.

Carisbrooke Castle

Carisbrooke Castle
Source: F. Frith and Co., Ltd. (Reigate)

Within the walls of the castle, among inferior objects or curiosity, is the well, three hundred feet deep, from which the water is drawn by an ass treading a wheel; the water is of the purest quality, and peculiarly grateful to the taste. Carisbrooke church, dedicated to St. Mary, was founded in 1064; it is a handsome stone structure, with a fine gothic tower, containing a peal of eight musical bells. The living is a vicarage, with the perpetual curacies of Newport and Northwood annexed, in the gift of the provost and fellows of Queen's College, Oxford. The population of the parish (including Newport), in 1841, was 5,613.

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GODSHILL is a parish village in East Medina liberty, about five miles and a half from Newport. The church, which stands on a hill in the centre of the village, is a very picuresque object, and immediately attracts the notice of the stanger; it contains some monuments of the Worsley family which are much admired. Some years since it was repaired, and received a number of additional alterations partly at the expense of the society for enlarging churches and chapels. The living is a discharged vicarage with the rectory of Niton and curacy of Whitwell annexed, in the gift of the provost and fellows of Queen's College, Oxford. The Wesleyan Methodists have a place of worship, and there is a free school, originally founded in 1593, by Philip Andrews and others. Population, in 1841, 1,435.

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NEWTOWN, or Newton, in the parish of Calbourn, West Medina liberty, is five miles N.W. from Newport, and is to be noticed only as a place represented in parliament previous to the reform bill, by which it was defranchised. It can scarcely be deemed a village, for it contains not more than about a dozen cottages. Its haven, however, is of great importance to shipping, and is considered to be the most secure of any about the island; and will admit, at high water, vessels of five hundred tons burthen. Newtown is one of the stations of the preventive service. The town-hall, an old structure, contains some oaken chairs, curiously carved, supposed to be of the time of Elizabeth. A titular mayor is chosen annually, and courts leet are held, at which constables are appointed - but the duties of these officers are merely nominal. The population of Calbourn parish, at the last census (1841), was 756.

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