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February 25, 2005

Petals and Plumage: Indian Textiles through March 20

 
Pichwai
 
Border fragment of a pichwai with lotuses and parrots (detail)

On display at the Mount Holyoke College Art Museum is Petals and Plumage, a rich and varied exhibition of some of the finest Indian textiles in the world.

Running through March 20, the show celebrates the aesthetic and technical diversity of Indian textiles and attests to India’s preeminence in textile production throughout history.

The works are all drawn from an extraordinary private collection that displays the range of ornamentation within Indian traditions and also demonstrates the many uses of textiles in Indian culture. Visitors will see examples of a broad range of production techniques, including painting, block printing, ikat, tie-dye, brocade, tapestry, and embroidery, spanning 600 years of the history, graphic beauty, and technical precision of this remarkable tradition.

The history of textiles from India over the last two millennia has been closely linked with the history of global trade. Romans wrote of Indian brocades as cloth of gold. Cottons, silks, and Kashmir shawls were highly prized in Europe and America during the colonial period, and in earlier times cotton fabrics from India were objects of prestige in Southeast Asia and the countries around the Persian Gulf and the Red Sea. The mastery of Indian spinners, dyers, and weavers over their materials was renowned and not attained elsewhere in the world until the advent of the Industrial Revolution and the concomitant invention of mechanical looms and chemical dyes.

The exhibition is all the more rewarding given the rarity of Indian textiles. Climate, insect damage, and usage have contributed to their rapid deterioration. In addition, worn cloth woven with gold or silver thread often was burned to reclaim the precious metals. This exhibition includes rare examples from the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries.

 

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