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The FDA recently released an announcement pertaining to its studies on "the traditional eye cosmetic known variously as kohl, kajal, al-kahl, or surma." According to the FDA, samples tested often contain significant amounts of lead. Lead sometimes accounts for more than half the weight of a sample of kohl, usually in the form of lead sulfide. Kohl may also contain a variety of other materials, such as aluminum, antimony, carbon, iron, and zinc compounds, as well as camphor and menthol.

The risks associated with exposure to lead are especially serious for children, who are particularly susceptible to absorbing lead from the environment. Among the effects associated with high levels of exposure are anemia, kidney problems, and neurological damage that may include seizures, coma and death. Even at relatively low levels, chronic exposure to lead may lead to learning and behavior problems

While kohl is often considered a harmless, "natural" cosmetic, it is a serious public health concern. Several studies have linked kohl use in babies to infant death from lead poisoning.

Kohl samples from India and Arab countries, analysed using X-ray powder diffraction and scanning electron microscopy, have found galena, amorphous carbon, zincite, sassolite or aragonite, cuprite, goethite, elemental silicon or talc, hematite, minium, and magnetite.

Studies have found both commercial and non-commercial preparations of kohl to contain high levels of contaminants including lead. Lead levels in commercial kohl preparations have been as high as 84%. Kajal has been linked to lead poisoning and lead intoxication. Complications of these conditions include anemia, growth retardation, low IQ, convulsions, and in extreme cases, death. Anemia from lead poisoning is of special concern in Middle Eastern and South Asian countries where other forms of anemia are prevalent — including iron deficiency anemia (from malnutrition) and hemoglobinopathy (sickle cell anemia, thalassemia).

Kohl (which is derived from an Arabic word), is a mixture of soot and other ingredients, used by Egyptian and Asian women, and to a lesser extent, men to darken the eyelids and as mascara for the eyelashes. Kohl has been worn traditionally as far back as the Bronze Age. Kohl was originally used as protection against eye ailments. Darkening around the eyelids also provided relief from the glare of the sun.Mothers would also apply kohl to their infants' eyes soon after birth. Some did this to "strengthen the child's eyes," and others believed it could prevent the child from being cursed by an "evil eye". (wikipedia.com)

This website is a collaborative group project by Stefanie Skyes-Allen, Asako Suzuki and Neha Shah to promote consumer and general awareness about cosmetics. As a final project for their Fall 2006 course 'Race, Gender and Environment', the goal is to understand and create awareness on this issue as one that takes on many dimensions. For comments or further information, contact wewantsafecosmetics@gmail.com